Travel Gem No. 7

Mosaics of Italy

watercolor on Arches paper

Passage through Treviso, Italy 

copyright © Sophia Khan

If you have traveled to Italy, or dream of traveling there while perusing dreamlike images in magazines or beautifully curated Pinterest boards, you know it is a land of variety.  While monuments and majestic ruins are plentiful, so too are the many inviting vistas and the small details one is sure to find along the way.  These present themselves at varying scales.  One might marvel at the spaces that unwind while strolling through an arcade, or encounter an ancient wall to witness the age of its weathering stone carvings.  

It is with all this in mind that I painted the above watercolor and wrote the poem below.

~

Mosaics of Italy
 

They flash before you like scenes from a mosaic brought to life.
Each vista in Italy is both a delight in and of itself, while through our wandering, they become connected by our memory, and thus become whole.

Turning the corner of the arcade leads to the open door in the home.
Turning the corner of the Cathedral leads to the closed doors of the forgotten church.
The church whose fading frescoes are all that remain to watch it from within, be it in silence and in dark.

Laundry drips its thirst onto sunlit stones, creating patterns for the wind to play with.  
In Italy, what was once private is now out in the open, while public space-the life filled piazza-retains a level of intimacy that is perhaps not even found within the home. For here, the traveler is not frowned upon for wandering alone. Here, the stones of the cities past gently nudge us to reconnect with, rediscover, and bring to the surface, thoughts of of own lives, our own story, our own path.

And just as our lives  are made up of tiny seeds of memory, that now and then become large or shrink according to the importance we impart on them, so too our travels embed in us many images that remain within us. 
Now and then, they lovingly remind us of a certain part of ourselves we perhaps found or fell in love with while we were there. 

travel inspiration photograph

The Sassi of Matera, Italy

There is always a seed from which the roots of journey begin to take shape.  For me, the seeds of my art lay partly in a place that is still very near and dear: The Sassi of Matera, a series of Paleolithic cave dwellings still in habitation, in the southern region of Basilicata, Italy.  

As dusk falls here, the muted shifting colors in the sky are reflected on a brownish cream limestone terrain tinged with age, carrying within in stories of an untold past.  Random lights, like crystals, are scattered across a labyrinthine facade, replete with dark openings; hinting at a presence silently watching the observer back.  At fist encounter, the visitor feels at once awe struck and mystified.  For this place is not like any other in Italy.  

I have traveled here often, with sketchbooks and watercolors in hand, trying to fathom how those without any architectural 'training' can make a place as dynamic, as beautiful, and as awe inspiring as this.  It makes one wonder what it truly takes to design and build a meaningful place.  

Below are some sketches I did while visiting there; some in the quiet of night, some in the beauty of dawn, and some while sunlight beamed down upon me as I wandered, squinting yet wide eyed in thought, among the stone dwellings scattered along my path. 

I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into some of my earliest sketches, done within one of my favorite travel destinations in Italy.  

I also wanted to share a reminder of my Watercolor Travel Memento offering; a bespoke gift for yourself, for a loved one during the holidays, or to celebrate an anniversary.  During this offer, complimentary shipping and gift wrapping will be made available on the limited number of commissions being offered.  

Your Watercolor Travel Memento

To read more about this limited time offering, see the link here.

Mystery of San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice

Watercolor on Arches paper

copyright © Sophia Khan

Today's watercolor and poem are inspired by the majestic Church of San Giorgio Maggiore.  It's one of those places where each time I travel there, I come to see and appreciate it in a new light.  Simply beautiful and slowly revealing more and more of itself to the visitor.  I feel this is how any well designed place should be... 

The Mystery of San Giorgio Maggiore
 

As if belonging to sky
as if belonging to air
as if not built but having always been there

The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore
becomes one with both Venice and the elements of nature within which the city weaves itself.

One comes upon this church perched majestically, far in the distance yet appearing so near.
It plays tricks with the eyes
It plays tricks with the mind
and with memory, it rehearses itself again and again

As if a place one imagines in a dream, and awakens not knowing whether the dream or the awakening is real.

Such is the lure
such is the glory
such is the mystery
of San Giorgio Maggiore

Sophia Khan

Travel photo used as a reference for the Watercolor

Fez, the Lure

Watercolor on Arches paper

copyright © Sophia Khan

The Royal Palace doors of Fez, striking and mysterious, complex and geometric, offer a breadth of visual poetry for the artist and writer to reflect upon.  Long time followers will recognize these as a favorite subject to 'rest' my pen and paintbrush...

Along those lines, the below poem began shortly after completing this watercolor.  It is inspired by a few things: my time traveling in Morocco; a book by Titus Burckhardt titled, Fez, City of Islam; which I read during my undergraduate architectural thesis for a design project in Fez; and the process of completing this painting and reflecting on it afterwards.  

~

Thresholds of Fez

Fez is a city of Thresholds

A threshold between past and future.
The past remains precious to the heartbeat of the city
giving it the magic and lure it emits to this day.

The past is also nostalgic
and one cannot help but wonder,
Will the depth of traditions past, of a culture rich with mysticism,
continue to give this city the meaning it once did?

Handmade crafts and wares,
the techniques of which are handed down from generations past...
Will they remain the pulse that was once the lifeblood of the city?
Or will they slowly fade away, along with the longing for something new,
something different, more 'modern', more for the outsider?

Fez is a city of Thresholds

There is mystery behind its closed doors.
What lies before in sharp contrast to what lies beyond.

The gates surrounding the city, once built to protect it,
now stand as invitations to enter leaving notions of space and time aside.

The darkness, mystery, and frenzy of the maze-like city and its narrow souks 
strikingly contrast its light filled courtyards.
Within them, cushions for reclining, colorful tiles, fountains, plantings,
The romance of it all being accented by the clattering of glass teacups 
brimming with scent and simple luxury.
All hidden from public eye, as if protecting innermost longings.

Fez is a city of Thresholds

For the local, this merging of light and dark, of outer and inner,
is a constant reminder, a constant celebration of dreams and awakening.

For the traveler it is revealing and eye opening to encounter this.
And one leaves awe-struck, with a deepened knowledge of self,
Forever instilled with the longing to become one with desire.

Sophia Khan

I hope you enjoyed this poem, and if you would love to bring Fez, the Lure into your home, or would like to see my other works for sale, please see the links below:

Awaiting Adventure in Venice

watercolor on Arches paper

a quick and loose watercolor sketch
copyright © Sophia Khan

My favorite way to 'end' a painting, is with poetry; thoughts, reflections, and wandering a bit more into the subject at hand, this time with pen and paper rather than paints and brushes.

And so today, sharing a new view of Venice, a new part of the city, located along the Grand Canal, that I have been wanting to paint for some time.  I delved into this with some of the new watercolors I purchases, partly as a way to experiment with them.  Afterwards, came the words below:

~

Gondolas & the Art of Choice in Venice

A row of gondolas awaits the arrival of one seeking adventure
Each stands as if a start to its own unique path into the maze that is the city of Venice.
Each pointing towards a different direction, a different choice, a different set of possibilities.

Is it not unlike our everyday lives, then?
This moving forth in the city of Venice.

The only difference being that here
There are no regrets
There is only a moving forward,

For here, even when we are wrong, there is stark truth and beauty to behold

Even when we are lost, we secretly want to be,
And do not fear not finding our way back.

And this difference being what gives the city the spell of undying hope
it forever instills in its visitors.

~

reference travel photograph

~ in my sketchbook ~

You may have gathered from the above watercolor that the 'mood' in my studio these days is one of a tad bit more looseness and playfulness than usual.  Following this a detail view of the Monreale Cathedral in Sicily.  

When I am feeling up for this sort of challenge, fun, and spontaneity, I will paint without an underlying pencil sketch as done in this small study.  As it turns out, I like the results and may go forth doing a more finished larger piece of the subject.

~music inspired by my watercolor~

Another fun bit of news is that I was recently contacted by Australian musician Helen Davey, to be part of her 52 Sound Paintings project.  The song she created, inspired by my watercolor of a home in Ferrandina, in southern Italy, is such a lovely composition.  It can be heard, at the project website here. 

And if you have enjoyed the above poem, some of my other poetry, inspired by my travels, can be viewed here. 

Travel Gem No. 6

Plein Air NYC

You may not know this about me.  My first career was in Historic Preservation.  I 'climbed' the scaffolding of tall building facades in NYC, up close to stone carvings and carefully formulated mortars, colored bricks, cast iron, terra cotta, and copper ornamentations, determining what could stay, what had failed the test of time, and what could be carefully crafted 'back to life.' 

I loved it.  I loved it because it connected me to a tradition of valuing, cherishing, and holding on to what has existed long before me.  And because it combined my interests in architecture, monuments, history, culture, and craft, in a city I loved. 

Although I no longer live in NY and my interests have evolved over the years, leading me to where I am today with pursuing my art, I often go back to visiting NYC.  This time, I decided to make an effort to do some plein air work and chose the site of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine for my creative excursion. 

Working here out in the open air, is quite different from studio work.  Being up front and close to your subject, being able to walk around it to find the perfect location, the curious onlookers, the wind in your hair, the changing shadows on the subject, the nearby sounds, which in this case were traffic, conversations of elderly people outside the nearby nursing home, music being blasted in a car parked beside where I sketched, and the repetition of the church bells when I went to go paint on the grounds.  And of course there is also the immediacy of time and the limited palette and art supplies on hand.....all part of both the challenge and joy of painting outdoors.

Back in the days of preservation work, I performed 'inspections' from high up above the facades of structures; many of which contributed to giving the city a sense of the past, all the while the hustle and bustle of city life below spoke of the immediate, the now, and the future.  The juxtaposition always struck me, always intrigued me.  

And so it was with delight that I encountered, by chance, an interesting installation when I went inside the cathedral, which also spoke of contrasts. Two Phoenix sculptures, by Chinese artist Xu Bing, were installed 'flying' in the central nave of the cathedral. Made of recycled found material and illuminated by tiny lights, they are a lovely foil to the built form and construction of the cathedral.  Facing the entrance rather than facing the altar creates a dynamic play between the front and back of the cathedral, as the in-flight gesture of the birds is contrasted with the receding perspective towards the altar.  

The end of my visit, saw me in the cathedral grounds where I blissfully sat on benches enjoying the view and lovely weather,  while working on two small watercolors.

~

On another note I am excited to share that my Watercolor postcard, Venetian Whispers, is currently on view as part of an exhibition in Vicenza, titled Homage to Venice and the Cities and Places of Art in the World.  Do stop by if you are in the area, or happen to be traveling there. (Info below) 

Photos from the first exhibition location, a cloister in Venice, can be seen here.

Inner Grace, Palermo

watercolor on Arches paper

copyright © Sophia Khan

In Italy, time graces place with meaning.  What was once a pagan temple, later becomes a church.  What was once a private palace, now opens its doors as a museum.  Other places and monuments stand the 'test of time' being firmly grounded in their original functions as cathedrals or amphitheaters, and such; the weathering of their stones being what gives them the mark of time.  

Maybe we travel to places with layers of history, to know all of us; all of what makes us who we are including our own past, who we are now, and what we seek for our futures.  Yes, we travel for adventure, to escape from our everyday, but at the same time there is perhaps an underlying calling that guides where we end up going.  There is perhaps something more than beauty that invites us to the scenery we peruse online or in magazines as possible travel destinations.  

One of my trips to Italy was dedicated solely to visiting Palermo.  Why Palermo, you might ask. The layering of course. Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman; so many diverse cultures settled and ruled this prime location.  The resulting Architecture is a unique layering of the various styles each brought with them.  And this being something I could relate to as a reflection of myself.  

One of the places I had come upon during this trip was the Regional Archaeological Museum of Palermo, which was originally a monastery.  Its courtyards were one of the most beautiful I have seen in all my travels.  Although I must admit, it's hard to come across a courtyard that is not inviting.  I've written before on how I see courtyards symbolically as 'containers' of our desires, hopes, and dreams.  As such one can see them as centers.  Centers of our innermost cores.

Each of the two courtyards contain a central pond accented by a sculpture.  One courtyard is graced with a sculpture of Triton.  The other, with that of an angel.  I found the angel quite fitting to the original use of the space as a monastic complex.  

I love the idea of archaeological remnants of the past carefully displayed in the halls and rooms of a space whose function has evolved over time.  And I hope that my painting conveys some of the grace, elegance, and inner calm that emits from this beautiful space layered with meaning, layered with time.

Have you encountered a place during your own travels that has changed in its use, in a way that gives it new meaning. One that stood out from the rest, and remains memorable to you as it now stands.  Or perhaps like me, you have traveled somewhere that you find is reflective of who you are.  I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences in the comments below, if you are so inclined to share.... 

And if you would enjoy 'Inner Grace' for your own home, or that of a loved one, archival Fine Art prints are available here and the Original Watercolor is available here.

Wishing you much grace, beauty, and wonder in your current surroundings and wherever else you many wander be it in travel, in memory, or in longing,

Sophia